[jrventurekid]

I have a charger (that is still in production) that can charge two at a time...Its called the "Quick Field Mk ll". It'll charge two nicds, nimh, or lithiums both at the same time! It costs between $60 and $80 dollars and is DC power only...>>>Quick Field Mk ll <<<

Thanks, Josh

[copier dude]

Hi all. I just received my box trailer from "must_bid" and WOW! It's way cool! Looks like I know what I'm going to do this weekend! Tamiya kits are sooooo high quality and well engineered. (That's probably why I have a closet full of 'em!)
Has anyone had the side panels of the box trailer polished?

Anyways, here are a few pics of the wiring job. Very time consuming to get it all inside of shrink wrap, but worth it I think. I still have the cab and wiring to do but am enjoying every second of it! Cheers, copier dude.

[bmanderville]

Extremely nice job! Now if I can only do it myself.

Bernie

[Turbojoe]

Very nice Dude. I used heat shrink on mine too but only on the longest runs of the harness. I didn't do it up to the lights. I was in the middle of fighting the paint job and was pretty frustrated so I just wanted to get it done. It still looks good but not this good.


Joe

[pininfarina]

Greeting guys

how are everyone? these haulers... really nice jobs with the wiring

[copier dude]

"Greeting guys

how are everyone? these haulers... really nice jobs with the wiring "


Hey, way cool lights! Please tell us the details as to how you did that. Cheers, copier dude.

[pininfarina]

Hi copier duder,
It's connected to J14 the spare socket for headlights. Did try to hook up to the wrinker, apparently the voltage couldn't support 2 led....(it's in the previous posting )

[copier dude]

Hi. What kind of LED did you use? Orange?
Cheers, copier dude.

[pininfarina]

Originally Posted by copier dude

Hi. What kind of LED did you use? Orange?
Cheers, copier dude.

normal ones... bright white

[copier dude]

Originally Posted by pininfarina

normal ones... bright white

Cool. Thanks for the info. I'll be starting on the cab very soon so I'm going to do that mod.

[Turbojoe]

Originally Posted by pininfarina

normal ones... bright white

Where did you get them?
What voltage does the Tamiya system operate on? Don't the LED's generally have a fairly wide voltage range they'll operate on? Should be easy enough to find something but I haven't had the time to search around.


Joe

[Turbojoe]

Nate,

Did you go to the Big Boys toy show? I was too burned out from work and didn't get anything ready to go. I wanted to at least go to the show and see all the trucks but didn't even get that far. They say they are finally going to hire another tech so that should take some of the load off of me I hope.


Joe

[wedicotrucker]

Originally Posted by Turbojoe

Nate,

Did you go to the Big Boys toy show? I was too burned out from work and didn't get anything ready to go. I wanted to at least go to the show and see all the trucks but didn't even get that far. They say they are finally going to hire another tech so that should take some of the load off of me I hope.


Joe

Joe, I sure did. It was a really good showing. We had a guy there from Canada, another from Indiana, and 3 from Montana. and abought a dozen or so from AZ. We had excavators, bulldozers and cranes on top of all the vearios trucks. Also had a fiew people from worck show up as well. I was going to call you, but I figuired you where probibly in Indiana for that confince. If I'd known you where home, I could have got you in the show for free. As every one driving trucks in the show got a free pass. But theres always next years Big Boys and There Toys show. Mark that on you calender for next year. Ric also hired a guy to take take vidio and he's going to make a 2 hour long vidio from what we did at the show. He should have that in stock in a couple weeks or so.

[PBoilermaker]

Hello all. Well, after more than 5 years of longingly looking at the Tamiya Aeromax, I finally devoted some disposable income to one. I bought the following:

Tamiya Aeromax
Tamiya MFCU
Full bearings
Full Aluminum Rims (3Racing)

I have been modeling static kits for nearly 20 years (I'm 28) and prior to this truck my only R/C experience was Tyco and the like. I'm military (Navy) and have been deployed or away from home almost all of the last five years. I finally got some shore duty and am getting back into modeling.

Like many of you, I saw the RCU/Tamiya video clips and finally stopped procrastinating. I have honestly always liked the real Ford Aeromax trucks in terms of their styling (look like beasts), so I am very pleased Tamiya did a scale model of one (not a generic truck like the Knight/King Hauler or Globeliner). Then again, my daily driver is an F150. If you hate Fords, oh well...to each his own . The only trucks I would like to see more than the Aeromax as R/C models are the Kenworth T2000 and Volvo VN (670/780).

My Aeromax will be built close to stock with the exception of the above extra items and maybe some minor scratchbuilding to make it look as much like a real Aeromax as possible. First thing to be modified are the taillights...Ford mounts a single, circular backup and two circular signals between the frame rails, not in a huge chrome light bar. I have some questions, though:

1. What servos are best? I had planned on using Futaba standard 3004's on the shifter and fifth wheel, but I may use a Hitec High Torque servo for the steering. Is that overkill, or would a 3004 work on the steering just fine?
What servos do you all use?

2. This is (and will be) my only R/C model, so I need to get a dedicated transmitter/receiver. Is the Futaba Attack 4wd good for my purposes? Do receivers come with the transmitters or is that a separate purchase? What freq should I use? 75mhz?

3. Has anyone installed an MFCU in the Aeromax? How does it sound when the speaker is mounted to the roof per the instructions? Would the speaker-in-a-box sound better (I can probably make it fit)??

4. Do you really use the small counterweight in the Aeromax vice the big one?

5. What batteries/charger are best?

6. Aside from the servos (x3), a transmitter/receiver and the batteries, what else do I need to get the Aeromax running?

7. Will the LRP Puller motor work with the MFCU or should I stick with the Tamiya kit motor?


This thing is expensive , but it will be well worth it. I may make an American prototype trailer for it one day (the Tamiya trailers are Euro-looking and short), but the tractor will do for now.

Any help with the above questions is most appreciated. Thanks.

-Mike

[wedicotrucker]

Originally Posted by PBoilermaker

Hello all. Well, after more than 5 years of longingly looking at the Tamiya Aeromax, I finally devoted some disposable income to one. I bought the following:

Tamiya Aeromax
Tamiya MFCU
Full bearings
Full Aluminum Rims (3Racing)

I have been modeling static kits for nearly 20 years (I'm 28) and prior to this truck my only R/C experience was Tyco and the like. I'm military (Navy) and have been deployed or away from home almost all of the last five years. I finally got some shore duty and am getting back into modeling.

Like many of you, I saw the RCU/Tamiya video clips and finally stopped procrastinating. I have honestly always liked the real Ford Aeromax trucks in terms of their styling (look like beasts), so I am very pleased Tamiya did a scale model of one (not a generic truck like the Knight/King Hauler or Globeliner). Then again, my daily driver is an F150. If you hate Fords, oh well...to each his own . The only trucks I would like to see more than the Aeromax as R/C models are the Kenworth T2000 and Volvo VN (670/780).

My Aeromax will be built close to stock with the exception of the above extra items and maybe some minor scratchbuilding to make it look as much like a real Aeromax as possible. First thing to be modified are the taillights...Ford mounts a single, circular backup and two circular signals between the frame rails, not in a huge chrome light bar. I have some questions, though:

1. What servos are best? I had planned on using Futaba standard 3004's on the shifter and fifth wheel, but I may use a Hitec High Torque servo for the steering. Is that overkill, or would a 3004 work on the steering just fine?
What servos do you all use?

2. This is (and will be) my only R/C model, so I need to get a dedicated transmitter/receiver. Is the Futaba Attack 4wd good for my purposes? Do receivers come with the transmitters or is that a separate purchase? What freq should I use? 75mhz?

3. Has anyone installed an MFCU in the Aeromax? How does it sound when the speaker is mounted to the roof per the instructions? Would the speaker-in-a-box sound better (I can probably make it fit)??

4. Do you really use the small counterweight in the Aeromax vice the big one?

5. What batteries/charger are best?

6. Aside from the servos (x3), a transmitter/receiver and the batteries, what else do I need to get the Aeromax running?

7. Will the LRP Puller motor work with the MFCU or should I stick with the Tamiya kit motor?


This thing is expensive , but it will be well worth it. I may make an American prototype trailer for it one day (the Tamiya trailers are Euro-looking and short), but the tractor will do for now.

Any help with the above questions is most appreciated. Thanks.

-Mike

suprizingly stock AKA "cheap" servos do just fine to turn all the whieght over the front axal on these trucks. and have no truble shifting gears. I use a mini servo for my 5th wheel.

[jrventurekid]

Wow, you've got some fun ahead! But anyway, WELCOME TO THE CLUB! 1.3004s will wok fine...No need for a torquer.
2.The Attack 4WD is fine (but I myself, don't like AM transmitters).
3.It sounds a little flat in the stock mount. (I have a friend with the Areomax) Yoy can modify it to make the larger box fit. My Knight Hauler has the box, and it sounds great!
4.Whatever the manual recommends on the counter-weight.
5.Peak chargers and 3000mah or higher batteries are best (I think Sanyo make a 3600mah).
6.A very small amount of plastic model glue, screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, and patience.
7.I'm not sure on that one.

Hope I have been of some help. Once again, welcome to the club.

Thanks, Josh

[markf8]

Originally Posted by jrventurekid

Wow, you've got some fun ahead! But anyway, WELCOME TO THE CLUB! 1.3004s will wok fine...No need for a torquer.
2.The Attack 4WD is fine (but I myself, don't like AM transmitters).
3.It sounds a little flat in the stock mount. (I have a friend with the Areomax) Yoy can modify it to make the larger box fit. My Knight Hauler has the box, and it sounds great!
4.Whatever the manual recommends on the counter-weight.
5.Peak chargers and 3000mah or higher batteries are best (I think Sanyo make a 3600mah).
6.A very small amount of plastic model glue, screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, and patience.
7.I'm not sure on that one.

Hope I have been of some help. Once again, welcome to the club.

Thanks, Josh

HEY JOSH HOW IT GO ?

[jrventurekid]

Whats happening mark? Hope all is well. I got a new email address, so I gotta send it to you.

Thanks, Josh

[markf8]

Originally Posted by markf8

HEY JOSH HOW IT GO ?

JOSH HERE IS A NEW AND UPDATED PHOTO OF MY PETERBILT

[jrventurekid]

Check your email. I just sent you the new address.

Thanks, Josh

[Turbojoe]

Welcome Mike! You're in the right place. The guys here know their stuff and were a great help to me.
I'll go along with the stock 3004 servos being more than adequate. A high dollar/high torque servo doesn't seem to be needed. At least not for my Knight Hauler. I use a Futaba Skysport 6 channel (75 mhz) with 3004's and it works great. The MFCU is awesome. It sounds so realistic that when I leave it idling for a long time I worry about the engine overheating!

Joe

[jrventurekid]

TurboJoe is a pro at this now...And it didn't take long at all! Right Joe?

Thanks, Josh

[Turbojoe]

Originally Posted by jrventurekid

TurboJoe is a pro at this now...And it didn't take long at all! Right Joe?

Thanks, Josh

I'm far from a pro but I did learn a lot from everybody in this forum.


Joe

[wedicotrucker]

Originally Posted by Turbojoe

I'm far from a pro but I did learn a lot from everybody in this forum.


Joe

the only other thing I would strogly recomend is a 4:1 gear redction sub transmition. I have a 4:1 in my towtruck and was able to pull my heavy hualer rig with my drop deck trailer and a 37 lbs excavator (abought 73 lbs toatal) with no problims. only thing I have to do now is add a lot of whieght over the front axel. as steering..........well lets just say it takes a lot more room than I have to make a 90 degree turn. at the show we had a bidge set up at roughly a 40 degree angle and at the crest of the climb the hole front end of my tow truck was all the way off the ground. I'll see if I can get the pic on the board.

[PBoilermaker]

Thank you to everyone who replied and thanks for the welcome. I have read every page of this forum (been lurking awhile) and the info has been invaluable. In my area, these trucks are about as common as unicorns and you get a strange look when asking about them, so I really appreciate the inputs.

1. I guess I will get the Futaba Attack 4WD. Are there cannels I should avoid (A1-A6)? How have those with this tx liked the performance? I really don't see any R/C activity where I am living, so I think the 27mHz freq won't pose a problem (or am I wrong?).

2. I will use Futaba 3004 servos throughout, maybe a micro for the 5th wheel (3101?).

3. I will find a way to use the MFCU sound box vice mounting the speaker to the roof. I know the MFCU box isn't as big as the one in the Knight Hauler, but it should provide a little more bass and clarity than just mounting the plain speaker to the roof.

4. I intend to get a 3300 or 3600 mAh power pack and the MRC Super Brain 959 peak charger...is this a good combo? Any problems with my choices?

I think that will just about do it for my project. Now I have to decide on a paint scheme. I would like to model a real Ford color scheme, maybe even a particular actual truck. I'll post progress when it occurs. Thanks again for the help.

-Mike